THE SPORRANMAKER'S NOTEBOOK

Why Leather Choice Matters More Than Most People Realise

Most people buying a sporran notice the silverwork.

…. -Or perhaps the beautiful hair-on-hide front.

Few ever stop to ask what lies beneath the surface.

Yet the leather hidden inside a sporran will determine how well it carries, how comfortably it wears, how gracefully it ages and whether it will still be used and admired thirty years from now.

Striking decoration catches the eye.

Beautiful leatherwork stands the test of time.

A sporran isn't simply covered in leather. –It’s built around leather.

A Brief History of Sporran Leather

Traditionally, the majority of civilian and military sporrans in various styles have been crafted with a bovine (cow hide) structure and then embellished with a variety of seal skin, kid skin, deer and even pig or goat hide facings and perhaps various bits of brass or silverware ornamentation.

I have even seen samples where fine silk and velvet cloth, canvas and similar have been used.   Military and pipe band sporrans tended to have long horse hair or goat hair fronts and various degrees of ornamentation in the cantle (that’s the silver or similar bit around the top of a sporran) to identify the regiment.

Early Highland Sporrans through the Jacobite era and beyond were simple drawstring affairs using whatever deerskin and similar materials were available. Each was crafted mainly to meet practical needs to carry small goods rather than for any decoration.

Leather tanning processes have advanced enormously since then and it wasn’t long before craftsmen experimented with and started refining our traditional styles of sporran, taking this essential kilt accessory to new levels of durability and even elegance.

What are the basic components of a well-crafted sporran?

Let’s have a look at a pretty standard dress sporran:

Pretty much ALL of this – apart from the metal elements and the stitching, glues and dyes - is (or should be) premium LEATHER or hair-on-hide.

Core Differences in Leather at a Glance

The Two Leathers Every Good Sporran Needs 

In a nutshell then, a good sporran maker would generally choose a heavier vege-tan leather for the main body (front and back panels) of a sporran to create inner structural integrity and an element of rigidity and then use chrome-tanned leather in the gussets and trim to provide a lightweight, strong, pliable, soft, and highly weather-resistant finish.

Add to this a hair-on-hide front face and perhaps a lamb skin suede inner lining and you have the core elements for potentially a sporran that could last a lifetime and beyond.

For day sporrans, the same principal applies, but there are more likely to have the vege-tan leather in a more pliable form to accommodate the folding of a top flap and any embossing that the craftsperson may work in. The inherent qualities of vege-tan leather show here as the heritage quality and a structural integrity of a working sporran that changes and characterfully ‘ages’ with its own patina over the years.

Why Do I Rattle on About ‘SPORRAN STRUCTURE’?

It matters, because these are the elements that go inside and on each sporran. -Like your home, the foundations, walls and roof all have to be sound for it to last for generations.

You won’t be able to see all this, but a good craftsman will probably have the following elements:

Quite simply, Plain leather (vege tan and chrome tan) will together build the core structure of the sporran (as shown above).

After several decades at the workbench, I still find that selecting the right leather is one of the most important decisions made, before the first stitch is ever sewn.

What ‘Hair-on-Hide’ Really Means

One of the exciting developments has been the increasing use of different tannery offerings, particularly in affordable, good quality hide that has the outer dermis and the hair or fur still attached.  This is called – as a loose, useful group – ‘hair-on-hide’ skins and can offer an amazing array of colours and textures to meet almost every sporran need.

Hair-on-hide (buck and deer, certain bovine, horse, goat, bison and the like) and textured leathers (crocodile, Cape buffalo, ostrich, elephant, zebra, springbok, fur seal and so on ) will provide character and exotic and rare  elements as well as a variety of colours and textures to suit most tastes.

Here a good sporran craftsman will work creatively with available colours and hides to find the best mix that matches a customer’s specific needs.

HAIR-ON-HIDE AND PLAIN LEATHER WORK TOGETHER

The finest sporrans combine different leathers, each chosen for a specific purpose. Structure, flexibility, durability and appearance all work together to create a sporran that not only looks beautiful today but continues to improve with age.

The hair-on-hide face of your sporran – along with the matching (or often contrasting) tassels hung there – should make your personal statement in front of your kilt.

It pays to trust a good craftsman who knows his leathers and tools.

Choosing Leather for Different Types of Sporran

First, make sure that it’s genuine leather. Believe it or not, there’s a pile of synthetic materials out there that are making their way into leatherworking.  You might save a little money, but only if you’re prepared to forget the intrinsic values in owning and proudly wearing ‘The Real Deal’.

# Don’t even be fooled by the ‘smell’ of new leather!! I’ve recently come across poor quality sporrans that have been infused with that ‘new leather’ aroma in their cardboard/leather board backs and even in a sachet tucked inside!

What to Look For Before You Buy

Before buying any sporran, take a few moments to handle it properly. Feel its weight. Open and close the catch several times. Examine the stitching carefully, especially where different pieces of leather meet. Flex the body gently. A quality sporran should feel solid yet comfortable, with enough flexibility to be practical while retaining its shape.

Is there any leather surety tag or stamp on the sporran, for peace of mind?

THEN, have a close look at the hair-on-hide (if it has a face covered with this). Feel the fur. Look for flaws. See how it has been stitched on and any exposed edges sealed.

NB: Check the gusset.  Traditionally, many classy dress sporrans crafted by world class craftsmen have edged the face of their sporran with clever identical hair-on-hide strips to frame the face. 

There’s nothing wrong with this and the craftsman has probably done a really good job of it, but be aware that this outside edge is almost invariably the first to be worn away during normal wear. Over time, it goes patchy and bald.

The modern move is to craft a rim (the front of the gusset) out of high grade chrome-tan leather that looks great, frames the face of the sporran well and will takes decades of the knocks that sporrans get with regular wear, with all the strength and durability that good leather offers. It even ages gracefully and adds character, like a comfortable pair of prized shoes.

Choosing A Sporran That Will Last

This is one of my favourite parts.

When you choose a sporran (especially if it’s your first sporran buy and you’re not entirely happy with being guided by price alone) consider the following:

# Do I want a sporran that is understated or rather one that is more dramatic?

# Is this sporran one that I’d be proud to be seen wearing? Does it reflect my personality and sense of style?

# Does it compliment and show off the kilt that it will front?

# How well does the colouring and texture of the hair-on-hide face of the sporran work with my shoes, sporran belt, perhaps a kilt belt and jacket that I’ll be wearing?

# Is the sporran actually functional so that it’s roomy enough to hold the stuff I want to carry inside there (today, it could be car keys, wallet or at least credit cards, perhaps a hip flask, a cell ‘phone) without bulking up in an ugly way?

# Does it appear to be decently crafted out of premium materials, especially the leathers and the even shaping and stitching?

THEN, look at the texture in the leather gussets and trim and all the ‘little stuff’…. –Those important details that speak of quality craftsmanship; the detailed stitching; the balanced, clean lines; the polished edges on that strap bridge and the fastening tab; the quality of the lining inside and, the visual balance and Finish.

Here are the basic sporran broad types, presuming that they have been crafted from the best leather and hair-on-hide elements available:

   DAY POUCH            DAY SPORRAN          DRESS SPORRAN       HUNTING SPORRAN

 That’s just the start.  The variety out there is enormous.

What about Craftsmanship?

Craftsmanship actually matters more than expensive materials.

The plainest way I know how to put it is this…………, "A master craftsman can produce something remarkable from an ordinary hide, while a magnificent hide in inexperienced hands will likely never reach its potential."

Final Thoughts

Every handsome sporran begins with beautiful leather. -But beautiful leather alone is never enough. Understanding how different leathers work together, and knowing where each belongs, is one of the quiet skills that separates competent leatherwork from heirloom craftsmanship.

Long after fashions have changed, silver has mellowed and the hide has acquired the rich patina of years of wear, the hidden leather structure will still be quietly doing exactly what it was designed to do.

That is the difference between something made to sell and something made to last.

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